the reset
This collection is a menswear collection that unpicks and explores the concept of masculinity and its many faces. It aims to question the stifling masculine stereotypes, to examine the confusing messages about manhood and its impact and to rethink and reshape the social constructs of masculinity.
Moodboard and Colour Story
Reversible, knee-length, double breasted coat with cap sleeves, high funnel collar, side pockets and front snap fasteners made from polyolefin upholstery fabric and cotton
“It’s time to celebrate a man who is free to practise self-determination, without social constraints, without authoritarian sanctions, without suffocating stereotypes.”
The Warrior Archetype
I explored The Warrior archetype, particularly, pre-colonial Filipino warriors for this collection, as they are the epitome of this cultural ideal of masculinity: powerful, strong, fearless, aggressive, brute. However, it as a shallow and restrictive description of manhood. Labelling all men as toxic is also a problem in itself because for some, these ideas and “rules” are already ingrained in their minds as synonymous with being a man. Consequently, it perpetuates a toxic idea, an unspoken pressure and a societal expectation that men must behave and act tough and to avoid showing emotions. But not all men are powerful, strong and stoic nor power, strength and showing emotions are only limited to one gender. Therefore, the problem is not about gender or identity. It is about what we, as a society, allow to be the definition of what it means to be a man.
Moro warrior with armour plate and spear (1899-1913), photo by Scott Slaten
The Dandy Archetype
I examined The Dandy archetype, from the historical English and French Dandy to the modern dandies such as Bakongo Dandy, David Bowie and pop stars, for this. These dandies represent rejection and rebellion against the malignant masculine standard and expectations that are culturally imposed on them.
English tailcoat (1825-1830), photo from Los Angeles County Museum of Art
"Kintsugi" original print design
Long-sleeved cotton men’s shirt with contrasting front yoke details, overlay, concealed centrefront button placket, exaggerated cuff sleeve and high funnel collar
Straight, ankle-length, cropped wool and viscose pants with front pleat detail, straight waistband, front and back pockets and button closures
“How they choose to dress and how they choose to present themselves to the world does not make them less of a man. It takes significant courage and nonchalance to do that because society is not really allowing them to. And the way I see it, that is also a man. It takes someone man enough to do that. ”
Photography: Sharif Chow Models: Tyler Kawaguchi HMUA: Eliza Sensi Fabrics: Woven Image, The Fabric Store Fabric Printing: Next State